People-Packed Prague

2015.07.19.a2015.07.19.b2015.07.19.cA smooth train ride took us from Vienna to Prague in just over 4 hours. From the metro, we wandered until we found our hidden Airbnb apartment where our host greeted us with maps and dining recommendations. We immediately headed to one of her nearby suggestions to sample Czech cuisine before exploring the Little Quarter. We browsed Baby Jesus’ wardrobe at the Church of Our Lady Victorious, the graffiti on Lennon Wall, and followed the music to a lively French market in Kampa. Not yet hungry, we made our way across the tourist-packed Charles Bridge to the even more crowded Old Town Square, where a Jazz Festival was in progress. We joined the hoards to watch the Astronomical Clock in action, then stopped by a local grocery store before collapsing back at the apartment. Having skipped dinner, I awoke at 4am to a more tranquil and beautiful city. After catching glimpse of a woman posing nude on the Charles Bridge, I returned to join Melody in planning the week over homemade breakfast with fried eggs and cheese. We decided to ascend along picturesque Nerudova Street to Prague Castle, where we surveyed the delicate stained glass at St. Vitus Cathedral, the defenestration window at the Old Royal Palace, relics at St. George’s Basilica, and Kafka’s house along Golden Lane. As the summer swelter set in, we relaxed with a bowl of pea soup at a local cafe, then pushed ahead to Strahov Monastery and the Miniature Museum. Next, we continued to Petrin Hill, where we passed by owls near the Observation Tower, got lost in the Mirror Maze, and descended the funicular to New Town for ramen and Old Town for trdelnik pastries on the way to our afternoon nap. Determined not to skip dinner again, we awoke despite overwhelming exhaustion for a late dinner of goulasch and veal. Unfortunately, this made us miss our next morning’s train to Kutna Hora, forcing us to rearrange our plans. Instead, we went to Jewish Town, where we learned about golem lore at Maisel Synagogue, Holocaust victims at the Old Jewish Cemetery, and Rabbi Low at the Old-New Synagogue. The Museum of Decorative Arts was under renovation, so we satisfied our Asian noodle crave before boarding the afternoon train to Kutna Hora. The ancient silver mining town was far from the train station, and the local bus did not stop near the sites. This resulted in exhaustive hikes back and forth between St. Barbara’s Cathedral, Sedlec Ossuary, and the Czech Museum of Silver. Nevertheless, we were awed by the eerie formations of human skulls and enjoyed donning miner’s gear to explore the silver mine tunnels. Despite showing up late and way under-dressed, we got to enjoy La Degustations’ tasting menu with juice pairings that helped revitalize us. We slept in on Friday, waking up to pork knuckles for lunch before touring the impressive Art Nouveau interior of the Municipal House. A short train ride took us to Karlstejn, where we got palacinky to power our walk up to the castle for our tour and ascent to heaven. Back in Prague, we joined locals at Lokal for sausage, fried cheese, and goulash, which kept our bellies full for an Alice-themed black light show. On our last morning, we awoke early again to watch the sunrise over Charles Bridge. From St. Nicholas Church, we returned to Old Town again to bargain for Bohemian crystals, then snagged some pizza and brats on the way to the train station. Back in Vienna, we camped out at our hotel, briefly braving the heat for some schnitzel and unsuccessfully finding dessert near the Leopold Museum. Thankfully, our brother-in-law picked us up after the long flight home, as we felt like we could use another vacation after this … vacation. There was simply too much to see and too many people around in Prague. Our next trip will definitely need to be toned down a notch.

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