We awoke at 5am to reach Gansbaai in time for our shark cage diving tour with Marine Dynamics. We prepared for our adventure with an instructional video over a hot breakfast, followed by a lengthy disclaimer against accidental death and dismemberment which kept the room very silent. By the time we were on the water, our worries were blown away by the cool ocean breeze. We watched seagulls circle us as the crew spewed chum from the back of the boat while spotters cast fish heads and a penguin-shaped lure on the starboard side. The tight wet suit and pungent smells made Melody empty her GI tract just before we jumped into the cage ourselves. We resisted the chilly waters and knocked against the steel bars to attract the great whites, which swam by so close that we were enticed to reach out and touch them (but didn’t). Our old camera did not survive, but saved us a few memorable videos before its demise. After some warm soup, we drove back to our B&B in Hermanus where Melody crashed into bed while Glenn tested his superzoom lens on the breaching whales from the hotel balcony. The town is well-known for its shore-based whale-watching, which we got to experience before dinner at Burgundy where we dined on delicious peri peri calamari and an overly sweetened bobotie. On Friday, Melody popped some dramamine tablets at breakfast to prepare for our whale-watching cruise with Southern Right Charters. The abundant whale sightings were unlike any we’ve ever seen in New England, and kept my camera finger busy until we returned to shore. For lunch, we shared a seafood platter from Ocean Basket to keep us full for the drive back to Cape Town, where the rush hour traffic made us forgo visiting Hout Bay. Eager for more curry, we followed online suggestions for nearby Kombuis, but did not account for the steep incline of the hike. We arrived an hour early, but the owners took pity and let us in early for the buffet of traditional Malay cuisine and an awesome view of the evening skyline – the perfect conclusion to our adventures in South Africa.