After months of planning and with help from Indian Panorama, we finally embarked on our 2-week tour of India. We arrived separately in Delhi with my flight from Madurai arriving just hours before Melody’s plane landed Sunday midnight. From our hotel in Connaught place, we met our guide in the morning to tour the Qutb Islam complex, where the towering Qutb Minar loomed more like a victory tower than as a minaret. At Humayun’s tomb, we circled the monument to capture every facade on camera, despite the perfect symmetry. Lunch at Pankara market kept us lethargic as we gleaned over the monolithic government buildings of the Rajpath. Dissatisfied with the faux government-sponsored souvenir shop our guide took us to, we spent the evening finding the real government shops followed by South Indian fast food amidst screaming toddlers for dinner. On Monday, we took a day trip to Armristar via India Rail, where we ignored the syndromic beggars at the station and basked in the luxury of free masala tea and samosas aboard our first-class car. Upon arrival, we scarfed down a thali at a local dhaba, then spent our few precious hours at the Golden Temple. Our spiritual stroll among Sikh worshippers in the gleaming white marble courtyard was awarded with a detour to the kitchen, where we helped prepare rice, dal, and chapatis for the 50,000 or so visitors who mooched there for free. We toured Old Delhi the following day, starting with the Red Fort and Jama Masjid, followed by views of the garishly gilded interior and elephant sculptures at Akshardam temple. After burrowing through the narrow alleys leading to the Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia and watching a politician receive blessings for his recent election win, we enjoyed hearty Mughal kebab & shorba for lunch, followed by delicious Armritsari fish and Murg Saagwali for dinner. We said goodbye to Delhi on Wednesday aboard the morning train to Agra, where the awe-inspiring beauty of the Taj Mahal was made better with the love story behind its conception and the free admission for visiting on World Heritage Day. At Agra Fort, the red sandstone was reminiscent of the Red Fort, but was much more unique and ornate in appearance. Inspired by the opulence, we splurged on some marble-inlay jewel boxes and dinner at the Oberoi, where we enjoyed sunset views of the Taj and a Gohbi Tandoori so delightful, Melody asked the chef for his recipe. We snuck another peak of the Taj the next morning before setting out for the abandoned town of Fatehpur Sikri along the way to Jaipur. The day-long drive was punctated by a stop at an Escher-like stepwell and multiple mosquito bites before we arrived at Dera Mandawa hotel. Here, the beautiful heritage room, cow-methane powered kitchen, and personal greeting from the husband and wife owner made us feel right at home, as we prepare to journey through Rajasthan.