Having to work six days a week here at Aravind meant that there was little time for leisure. So for my first day off, I decided to explore as much of the city as I could. My morning began bright and early at the Meenakshi Amman Temple. After meeting my guide Rishi, who came recommended by both Frommer’s and guesthouse tenants, we proceeded inside to explore the expansive temple complex. Meenakshi is a fish-eyed, triple-breasted goddess, consort of Shiva, and one of the few Hindu female deities to have a major temple devoted to her. The temple is considered by many to be the height of South Indian temple architecture, and is enclosed by 12 gopurams (towers), each as colorful as a Mardi Gras parade. After a requisite blessing by the temple elephant, we spent nearly two hours examining the intricate carvings, learning the lore of the deities, and watching worshippers annoint their foreheads with colored powder. Afterwards, I was led into several shops around the temple periphery, each touting a good rooftop view of the temple, but not before showing me their selection of souvenir statues, silk, and carpets. I did manage to score some teacups and salwars for Melody before heading to the Taj Gateway Hotel for lunch. My rickshaw and I seemed a bit out of place among the fancy cars and clientelle there, but the uphill ride was worth the aerial view of Madurai and a hearty luncheon of tomato soup, chicken curry, and gulab jamun. The afternoon was spent at the Tirumalai Nayak Palace with its lofty yet lackluster architecture, and at the Gandhi Museum, which featured poster boards recounting India’s path to independence and the blood-stained loin cloth in which the hero was killed. I strolled back to the guesthouse from there, stopped for a cup of chai and photos with the locals, then rested briefly before heading back out in the evening to get fitted for a suit at Hajeemoosa and dining on delicious mutton biryani atop the Royal Court Hotel for dinner. Despite the sizzling heat and getting lost on multiple occasions, the hectic day was immensely satisfying.