Mazes in Marrakech

2015.10.14.a2015.10.14.b2015.10.14.cWith Morocco just a short hop from Paris, we decided that it would be our last adventure before Melody’s February due date. We arrived in Marrakech on Saturday, where we quickly became engulfed by the dizzying alleys of the medina. Our riad was a quiet sanctuary run by an Italian owner, and served as a home base from which to explore the bustling city. We were intimidated by the hawkers and street vendors on the first night, and settled for our first taste of tagine and couscous from the rooftop terrace at Chez Chagrouni. The next morning, we explored Dar Si Said, Musee Tiskiwin, Bahia Palace, and the Saadian Tombs. But as the afternoon tourist crowds swelled, making us focus more on stray cats than the architecture, we decided to turn in early. We returned to Djemaa El-Fnaa for dinner, hopping from one street stand to another consuming hearty harira, herbal snails, fried aubergine, lamb tagine, and our highlight – boiled sheep’s head. We watched an old man split the mandibles and tear off facial muscles onto our plate with the finesse of an ENT surgeon, then tore into the meat ourselves with a sprinkle of cumin and salt, washed down afterwards with fresh-squeezed OJ. We awoke the next morning for a Supratours bus ride to Essaouira. Here, we strolled along the cannon-lined ramparts as we watched waves crash against the fortressed walls of the city. We negotiated for an assortment of fresh grilled seafood for lunch, then spent the afternoon bartering for souvenirs, resting our feet briefly over mint tea and apple juice, then returned to Marrakech. We began Tuesday with a cooking class with Chef Rachida Sahnoune at the Riad Monceau, and enjoyed our self-made samosas and tagines for lunch. We decided to walk it off on the way to the Mederssa Ben Youssef, but got lost wandering through the maze of souks and arrived after the place had closed. Instead, we visited the Maison de la Photographie, then returned to crash at our riad. Glenn awoke at dusk to check out snake charmers back at the main square, then joined Melody for a soothing couples massage at Le Bains Bleu before ending another evening with more street food. After 3 days in the chaotic city, we were ready to journey ahead into the desert.

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